Brick Cleaning: Remove Mortar & Efflorescence

Bricklaying produces durable and visually appealing structures, yet excess mortar often mars the final appearance. Cleaning is essential after the construction phase; it removes the unsightly smears that detract from the brick’s aesthetic appeal. Efflorescence, a white, powdery residue, also needs removal to maintain the bricks’ pristine condition.

Ever wondered about the stuff gluing your bricks together? That’s mortar, folks, and it’s kind of a big deal. It’s not just there to fill the gaps; it’s the backbone of your brick or stone structure, keeping everything snug and secure. But, like anything else, mortar can get a little grimey, crumbly, or just plain ugly over time, which is where mortar removal comes into play.

Now, why would you even think about messing with perfectly good mortar? Well, there are a few reasons. Maybe you’re a neat freak looking to give your brickwork a sparkling clean and a fresh aesthetic appeal. Or perhaps you’re gearing up for a bit of repointing – that’s like a mortar facelift, where you replace the old, worn-out stuff with the new and improved version. For those of you with a passion for historic buildings, mortar removal might be essential for bringing these beauties back to their former glory. And sometimes, it’s as simple as dealing with damaged mortar joints that are crying out for repair.

But here’s the kicker: You can’t just go in there with a hammer and chisel (though, admittedly, that sounds pretty fun). You’ve got to be careful! Using the wrong techniques can turn your beautiful brickwork into a pile of rubble. Nobody wants that, right? We’re talking chipped bricks, cracked stones, and a whole lot of regret. It’s like trying to perform surgery with a butter knife – messy and potentially disastrous.

And speaking of disasters, let’s not forget about safety. We’re dealing with dust, debris, and sometimes even chemicals that could be unpleasant. So, before you even think about picking up a tool, we’ll make sure you know how to protect yourself. Think safety glasses, gloves, and maybe even a cool-looking respirator. So, let’s proceed with safety in mind!

Understanding Mortar and Brick: Getting to Know Your Building Blocks

Before you start hacking away at your mortar, let’s get acquainted with the players involved: mortar and brick. Think of it like understanding the ingredients before you start baking – you wouldn’t throw a bunch of stuff in a bowl without knowing what it is, would you? Same goes for mortar removal!

Mortar Composition: The Glue That Holds It All Together

Mortar, at its heart, is a mixture of cement, lime, sand, and water. It’s like the peanut butter to the brick’s jelly (or, if you’re not into PB&J, the cheese to the cracker!). The cement acts as the primary binder, the lime improves workability and flexibility, the sand adds bulk and strength, and the water… well, it makes it all come together! Now, the ratio of these ingredients is crucial. Too much cement, and you’ll end up with a super-strong but brittle mortar. Not enough, and it’ll crumble faster than a cookie in your toddler’s hands.

Types of Mortar: Choosing the Right Blend

Mortar isn’t a one-size-fits-all kinda thing. There are different “recipes” (aka types) designed for different purposes.

• Type N Mortar: This is your general-purpose mortar, the workhorse of the building world. It’s perfect for above-grade applications, like your house’s walls. It’s like the all-purpose flour of mortar – reliable and versatile.
• Type S Mortar: Need something stronger? Type S mortar is your go-to. It’s the bodybuilder of the mortar world. It’s designed for below-grade applications or areas that experience high stress, like foundations or retaining walls.

Keep in mind: if you’re dealing with an older building, it might have mortar formulations that are a bit different from what’s used today. These older mortars often used a higher lime content, making them softer and more flexible. So, tread carefully and do your research before tackling any removal!

Brick Types and Properties: The Faces of Your Wall

Bricks, like people, come in all shapes, sizes, and personalities (well, not really personalities, but you get the idea!).

• Clay Brick: These are the classic bricks, made from clay and fired in a kiln. They come in a variety of colors and textures, adding character to any building. Think of them as the vintage vinyl records of the building world – each one is unique and has its own story to tell.
• Concrete Brick: Made from concrete, these bricks generally have a more uniform appearance than their clay cousins. They’re like the digital downloads of the brick world – consistent and predictable.

And speaking of personalities, let’s talk about brick porosity.

Brick Porosity: Why It Matters

Brick porosity, or how absorbent a brick is, plays a HUGE role in mortar removal. Think of it like a sponge:

• High-porosity bricks are like super-absorbent sponges. They soak up everything, including cleaning solutions and stains. This means they’re more susceptible to damage from harsh chemicals.
• Low-porosity bricks are like those fancy non-stick pans. They don’t absorb much, making them easier to clean but also potentially less receptive to certain treatments.

Understanding your brick’s porosity is crucial for choosing the right mortar removal methods and avoiding any disastrous staining or damage. After all, nobody wants a brick that looks like it went through a tie-dye machine!

Safety First: A Mortar Removal Survival Guide (Okay, Maybe Not That Dramatic!)

Alright, before we even think about getting down and dirty with mortar, let’s talk safety. I know, I know, safety briefings are about as exciting as watching paint dry, but trust me, this is one area where you don’t want to cut corners. We’re dealing with potential hazards here, and a little precaution can save you from a world of ouch. Think of it like this: We are not only protecting you but we’re also protecting your property.

Gearing Up: Your Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

First things first: let’s talk gear! Consider this your superhero costume for mortar removal. Here’s what you’ll need:

• Safety Glasses/Goggles: This is non-negotiable. Mortar debris, chemical splashes – your eyes are precious, so shield them!
• Chemical-Resistant Gloves: Acids and cleaning solutions can wreak havoc on your skin. Grab some nitrile or neoprene gloves for maximum protection. Think of it like a manicure, but instead of pretty nails, you get to keep your skin intact!
• Respirator: Especially if you’re using acids or working indoors, a respirator is your best friend. Make sure you get the right cartridge for acid vapors. Your lungs will thank you.
• Protective Clothing: Long sleeves and pants are a must. No one wants a mortar rash!

Fresh Air is Your Friend: Ventilation

Imagine trying to enjoy a delicious meal in a stuffy, smoke-filled room. Not so pleasant, right? Same goes for mortar removal. Especially when working with chemical solutions, good ventilation is crucial. Open those windows, crank up the fans – let that fresh air flow!

Obey the Rules: Safety Regulations

Think of safety regulations as the roadmap to a successful and legally compliant mortar removal journey. You have to comply with local and national regulations for handling hazardous materials and disposing of waste, or it could lead to legal issues. Your local and national government websites is the best place to start!

Uh Oh! Emergency Procedures

Accidents happen, even to the best of us. The trick is to be prepared. So here’s what you do:

• Acid Exposure: If acid gets on your skin, flush the affected area with copious amounts of water for at least 15 minutes. Seriously, don’t skimp on the water. Then, seek medical attention immediately. Better safe than sorry!

Remember, safety isn’t just a suggestion – it’s the foundation for a successful and injury-free mortar removal project. So gear up, breathe easy, and let’s get to work…safely!

Tools and Materials: Gathering Your Arsenal

Alright, so you’re ready to dive into the trenches, eh? Mortar removal isn’t exactly a walk in the park, but with the right tools and materials, you’ll feel like a seasoned pro in no time. Think of this section as your shopping list and a little pep talk on why each item is crucial. Trust me, skipping this part is like trying to bake a cake without flour – messy and not gonna end well.

Acids (Handle with HUGE Caution!)

Okay, let’s talk acids. These are your big guns for dissolving mortar. But remember kids, with great power comes great responsibility.

• Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid):* This stuff is *strong*. It’s like the Hulk of mortar removers. Use it when you’ve got some seriously stubborn mortar. **_WARNING: Highly corrosive. Use with extreme caution and proper PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)._ We’re talking safety glasses, gloves, the whole nine yards. As for dilution, it really depends on the mortar’s resistance. *Start with a ratio of 1 part acid to 5 parts water, and adjust accordingly. Always add acid to water, never the other way around, to avoid dangerous splashing. To neutralize, create a baking soda solution (more on that later) and apply it after rinsing.

• Phosphoric acid: Think of this as Muriatic acid’s slightly calmer cousin. Still effective, but a bit less aggressive. It’s a good choice when you want to avoid the Hulk-smash approach. It’s a milder alternative, but it may require more soaking time.

• Acetic acid (Vinegar): Ah, good ol’ vinegar. The safest of the bunch, but also the least powerful. Ideal for very light mortar removal or those minor cleaning tasks. Don’t expect miracles here; it’s more like a gentle persuasion than a full-blown demolition.

Proprietary Mortar Removers: The Pre-Mixed Magic

These are your ready-to-go solutions. Someone else has already done the mixing and measuring (thank you, science!). The key here is to READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. Every product is different, and following the manufacturer’s guidelines is crucial for both safety and effectiveness.

Cleaning Solutions: The Prep Squad

• Detergent solutions: These are your all-purpose cleaners. Use them for general cleaning and pre-cleaning to remove dirt and debris. Think of it as prepping the canvas before the painting begins.

• TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) solutions: This is a strong cleaner, but here’s the catch: its use is often restricted due to environmental concerns. Before you reach for it, check your local regulations. If you can’t use TSP, look for phosphate-free alternatives; some good ones include borax-based cleaners or heavy-duty detergents.

Tools: Your Hands-On Helpers

• Acid brushes: These are specially designed for applying acids safely and evenly. Don’t use your regular paintbrush – trust me on this one.

• Stiff-bristled brushes (natural or nylon*)**:* *For scrubbing and removing loosened mortar.* And remember, *avoid metal brushes*, as they can scratch and damage the brick.

• Spray bottles/Garden Sprayers: For applying cleaning solutions. Spray bottles are great for small areas, while garden sprayers are your go-to for larger surfaces.

• Chisels (brick chisels, cold chisels*)**:* For mechanically breaking away mortar. Invest in a good set with various sizes. *Use the appropriate size and shape for the joint width* to minimize damage.

• Scrapers (putty knives, joint scrapers*)**:* *For scraping away softened mortar*. A good scraper will save you a ton of elbow grease.

• Wire brushes: For removing loose mortar particles. Use with extreme caution to avoid scratching the brick. It is best for larger areas and may not be suitable for delicate or historic brick.

• Grinders (with appropriate masonry grinding wheels/discs*):* These are your heavy hitters. **_WARNING: Creates a LOT of dust. Always wear a respirator and eye protection._ Use a grinder when you need to remove a significant amount of mortar quickly.

• Rub bricks: These are abrasive bricks that you rub against the surface to remove mortar residue. Think of them as sandpaper for brick.

Neutralizing Agents: The Antidote

• Baking soda: Your trusty baking soda is the key to neutralizing acid residue. To make a neutralizing solution, mix about 1 cup of baking soda per gallon of water. Apply liberally after rinsing with water.

Water Sources: Rinse and Repeat

• Water: For rinsing surfaces and mixing solutions. You can’t have enough water on hand for rinsing, diluting, and cleaning.

• Hose: A source of running water for thorough rinsing. A hose with a spray nozzle will be your best friend.

• Buckets: For holding water for rinsing and mixing solutions. A few good-sized buckets are essential for any cleaning project.

Methods of Mortar Removal: A Step-by-Step Guide

Alright, let’s dive into the nitty-gritty: how to actually get that mortar out! We’re talking hands-on techniques here, from the controlled chaos of acid washing to the satisfying ‘thwack’ of mechanical removal. Grab your safety glasses (seriously, don’t skip that part), and let’s get started!

Acid Washing: Proceed with Caution!

Imagine mortar as that stubborn houseguest who just won’t leave. Acid washing is like sending them a strongly worded invitation to finally pack their bags… but you have to be careful not to burn down the house in the process!

• Preparation: First things first, pre-wet the brick surface. Think of it like prepping your skin before a chemical peel – you want to protect it! Drench those bricks with water.
• Dilution Ratios: Now, the acid. This is super important. The correct concentration depends on how stubborn the mortar is and what kind of brick you’re dealing with.
  • Example: For light mortar staining on durable brick, try a 1:10 acid-to-water ratio. For heavier staining or softer brick, you might need a stronger solution, like 1:5, but always test in a small, hidden area first. Don’t be a mad scientist; be a cautious one.
• Application Time: Don’t just slather it on and walk away! Acid is a powerful potion. Leave it on for a short period (5-10 minutes), keeping a close eye on it. If you see the brick fizzing or changing color, rinse it immediately!
• Neutralization Process: This is where the baking soda comes in. It’s like the antidote to the acid’s venom. Mix baking soda with water to create a neutralizing solution and apply it generously to the acid-washed surface. Let it sit for a few minutes to do its thing.
• Rinsing Procedures: Finally, rinse everything with copious amounts of water. Use a hose with a nozzle to blast away any remaining cleaning solutions and debris. You want that brick sparkling clean and acid-free.

Mechanical Removal: Get Your Hands Dirty

Feeling more like a demolition expert than a chemist? Mechanical removal might be your jam. It’s all about good old-fashioned elbow grease and the right tools!

• Chiseling Techniques: Grab your chisel and a hammer. The key is the angle. Hold the chisel at a shallow angle to the brick surface and gently tap it with the hammer. You’re trying to shave away the mortar, not obliterate the brick.
• Scraping Techniques: For softer mortar or loose bits, a scraper is your best friend. Apply firm, even pressure to scrape away the unwanted mortar. Think of it like frosting a cake…but with, well, mortar.
• Grinding Techniques: Time to bring out the big guns. A grinder with a masonry grinding wheel is a fast way to remove mortar, but it’s also the riskiest. Always wear a respirator and eye protection. Use a slow, steady hand, and avoid applying too much pressure. The grinder should do the work; you’re just guiding it. Warning: Use dust collection attachments to minimize dust exposure.
• Rubbing Techniques: For those final touches and smoothing out any rough spots, reach for a rub brick. Use a circular motion to gently remove mortar residue. It’s like giving your brick a spa treatment.

Pre-Soaking: The Patient Approach

Sometimes, the best approach is the patient approach. Saturating the mortar with water before cleaning can help loosen it up, making the whole process easier. This is especially beneficial for older, more porous mortar, which tends to be extra stubborn.

Mortar Softening: Give It a Little Nudge

• Chemical Softening: If pre-soaking isn’t enough, you can try chemical softening. Apply a mortar softening solution according to the manufacturer’s instructions before attempting mechanical removal.
• Hydration Softening: Alternatively, you can continue to saturate the mortar with water. Repeated applications may be necessary, but it’s a gentler approach than using harsh chemicals.

So there you have it, a range of methods to tackle that unwanted mortar. Choose the one that best suits your skills, tools, and the condition of your brickwork. And remember, safety first!

Potential Problems and Solutions: Troubleshooting Tips

Okay, so you’re knee-deep in mortar removal and things aren’t going exactly as planned? Don’t sweat it! It happens to the best of us. Think of this section as your “Uh oh, what now?” survival guide. Let’s dive into the common hiccups and how to fix them.

Staining: When Bricks Get Moody

• The Problem: Staining is basically your brick throwing a tantrum and changing color after being introduced to a cleaning solution. This discoloration can be blotchy, streaky, or just plain ugh.

• Prevention: Imagine your brick as a super sensitive house guest. You wouldn’t just blast them with a firehose, right? Same goes for cleaning solutions. Always, and I mean ALWAYS, test your chosen cleaner in a small, hidden area first. This is like offering a tiny sip to see if they like the drink before pouring a whole glass.

• Solution: So, the deed is done, and you’ve got stains. No panic! First, identify the type of stain (organic, mineral, etc.). Then, choose an appropriate cleaner or poultice (a paste-like substance that draws out stains). Apply it according to the instructions, and cross your fingers. Sometimes, stubborn stains might need a professional touch.

Surface Damage: Scratches, Chips, and Regret

• The Problem: You went a little too hard with the wire brush or chisel, and now your brick looks like it went a few rounds with a heavyweight boxer. We’re talking scratches, chips, or even chunks missing.

• Prevention: Think gentle, not Hulk-smash. Opt for softer brushes (natural or nylon bristles are your friends) and avoid excessive force. If you’re using a chisel, make sure it’s sharp and angled correctly. And remember, patience is a virtue!

• Solution: Ouch, this one’s tough. Minor scratches might fade over time, but significant damage often requires professional brick repair. A skilled mason can patch or replace damaged bricks, but it’s not a DIY job for the faint of heart.

Acid Etching: When Acid Gets Too Friendly

• The Problem: Acid etching is like giving your brick a chemical sunburn. It happens when acid is too strong, left on for too long, or not properly neutralized. The result? A dull, rough texture that’s far from desirable.

• Prevention: Acid is a powerful tool, but it needs to be handled with respect. Always dilute it according to the instructions, monitor the application time closely, and for Pete’s sake, don’t leave it on overnight!

• Solution: Neutralize, neutralize, NEUTRALIZE! Immediately flush the affected area with a baking soda solution. This will stop the acid from eating away at the brick. Unfortunately, etching is often irreversible, especially if it’s severe.

Mortar Smear: The Ghost of Mortar Past

• The Problem: You’ve removed the bulk of the mortar, but a thin, ghostly layer remains, clinging to the brick like a lovesick ex.

• Solution: Grab a stiff brush (natural or nylon bristles), a bucket of cleaning solution (detergent or a mild masonry cleaner), and some elbow grease. Scrub the affected area until the smear is gone. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.

Color Change: Brick Identity Crisis

• The Problem: Your brick was a nice, warm red, and now it’s…pink? Grayish? What in the world happened?

• Prevention: This is another reason why testing your cleaning solution is crucial. Some chemicals can react with the minerals in the brick, causing a permanent color shift.

• Solution: Sadly, this one can be tricky to fix. Sometimes, the color change will fade over time as the brick weathers naturally. Other times, it’s permanent. Consult a professional for advice, but be prepared for the possibility that you’re stuck with the new hue.

Joint Damage: Friendly Fire

• The Problem: In your zeal to remove the old mortar, you accidentally nicked, chipped, or otherwise damaged the surrounding mortar joints.

• Prevention: Precision is key! Use the right tools for the job (chisels of the appropriate size, careful scraping techniques) and avoid applying excessive force. It’s like performing surgery—you want to be precise and controlled.

• Solution: Time for repointing! This involves carefully removing the damaged mortar and replacing it with fresh mortar. It’s a relatively straightforward process, but it requires a bit of skill and patience. If you’re not comfortable doing it yourself, hire a qualified mason.

Efflorescence Removal: The Case of the Mysterious White Powder

• The Problem: You’re admiring your newly cleaned brick, and then you notice it. A white, powdery substance clinging to the surface. This is efflorescence, a deposit of salt left behind by water evaporation.

• Solution: For light efflorescence, a good scrubbing with a stiff brush will often do the trick. For stubborn deposits, try a mild acid solution (like diluted vinegar or a commercial efflorescence remover). Always rinse thoroughly with clean water after cleaning.

Important Considerations: Weather, Timing, and Disposal

Alright, picture this: You’re all geared up, ready to tackle that mortar like a superhero. But hold on a sec! Before you dive in headfirst, let’s chat about a few sneaky factors that can make or break your project: weather, timing, and disposal. Ignoring these is like forgetting to charge your phone before a road trip – you’re gonna have a bad time.

Application Time and Temperature: Goldilocks and Your Mortar

Think of mortar removal like Goldilocks and her porridge. Too hot, too cold, and it’s all wrong. Temperature plays a HUGE role in how those chemicals react. If it’s blazing hot, the chemicals might evaporate too quickly, not giving them enough time to do their job. Freezing temps? Forget about it! The chemical reactions will practically hibernate.

Aim for a moderate temperature – somewhere in the Goldilocks zone – for the best results. Always check the product label for specific temperature recommendations! This goes double when you’re slinging acids around. You don’t want them reacting too fast or too slow; it’s all about that sweet spot.

Weather Conditions: Humidity’s Dirty Little Secret

Ever tried styling your hair on a super humid day? Yeah, not fun. Well, humidity can mess with your mortar removal project too. High humidity can slow down those drying times, leaving you twiddling your thumbs. It can also increase the risk of staining because the brick stays wet longer, absorbing more of whatever cleaning solution you’re using. Try to plan your project for a day that’s not a complete swamp. Low humidity and a gentle breeze are your BFFs here.

Disposal: Don’t Be a Litterbug (Especially with Hazardous Stuff!)

Okay, so you’ve conquered the mortar. Congrats! But the adventure isn’t over yet. Now, you’ve got to deal with the leftovers – the cleaning solutions and that pile of crumbly mortar. Don’t just dump it down the drain or toss it in the trash!

First things first: NEUTRALIZE those acids before you even THINK about disposal! Baking soda is your friend here. Mix up a neutralizing solution and make sure everything is nice and safe before proceeding.

Then, check your local regulations for disposing of hazardous waste. Seriously, don’t skip this step. Some areas have strict rules about how to get rid of chemical solutions and construction debris. You might need to take it to a special disposal facility or follow specific guidelines. Ignoring this could land you with a hefty fine (and nobody wants that!). Remember to do your homework and dispose of everything responsibly. Your local environment will thank you (and so will your wallet).

Regulations: Staying Compliant – Don’t Be a Renegade!

Alright, let’s talk about playing by the rules! We all want sparkling clean brickwork, but nobody wants a hefty fine or a visit from the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency). Mortar removal isn’t just about elbow grease; it’s also about being a responsible citizen of the planet and making sure you’re not inadvertently causing harm. Think of it like this: you’re cleaning up, not messing up!

Environmental Regulations – Keep Our Waterways Happy!

Ever thought about where that dirty water goes after you’ve rinsed off all that grime and acid? Yeah, exactly. Many local areas have specific regulations about wastewater disposal from cleaning projects. This isn’t just some nitpicky thing; it’s about keeping our rivers, lakes, and oceans clean and healthy. Imagine if everyone just dumped their chemical-laden wastewater down the drain – yikes!

• Wastewater Woes: Always check with your local authorities before you start any mortar removal project. They can tell you exactly what’s allowed and what’s a big no-no. They might require you to collect the wastewater and dispose of it at a designated facility.
• Neutralize, Neutralize, Neutralize: Remember that baking soda you used to neutralize the acid? That’s your friend here. Make sure your wastewater is properly neutralized before even thinking about disposal.

Safety Regulations – Don’t Be a Daredevil!

Acids and flying mortar chips aren’t exactly a walk in the park. That’s where agencies like OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) come in. They’ve got guidelines to keep you safe when handling hazardous materials. Think of them as the sensible aunt who always reminds you to wear sunscreen.

• OSHA is Your Pal: While OSHA guidelines are primarily for professionals, they’re a fantastic resource for anyone tackling a mortar removal project. Familiarize yourself with their recommendations for personal protective equipment (PPE), ventilation, and handling chemicals safely. You can usually find a wealth of info on their website.
• SDS Sheets Are Your Bible: Every chemical product you use should have a Safety Data Sheet (SDS). These sheets contain vital information about the hazards associated with the product and how to handle it safely. Read them! Understand them! Keep them handy! It’s like having a cheat sheet for not blowing yourself up (or causing other less dramatic, but still unpleasant, accidents).

In short, a little bit of research and planning can save you a whole lot of trouble (and potentially, a visit from the authorities). Staying compliant with regulations isn’t just about avoiding fines; it’s about doing things the right way – protecting yourself, your property, and the environment. Now, get out there and clean that mortar, responsibly!

Related Tasks: Gearing Up for Repointing – The After-Party for Mortar Removal!

So, you’ve wrestled with that old mortar and emerged victorious! Congratulations! But hold on, the story doesn’t end there. Think of mortar removal as the opening act. The headliner? Repointing! You wouldn’t just leave your brickwork with gaping, empty mortar joints, would you? That’s like throwing a party and forgetting the music.

Repointing is essentially replacing the mortar you’ve just so diligently removed. It’s like giving your brickwork a fresh lease on life, restoring its structural integrity and sprucing up its appearance. It fills those gaps and adds a touch of beauty back to the structure.

Why The Right Mortar Matters (More Than You Think!)

Now, before you grab any old bag of mortar mix, let’s have a quick chat about mortar types. You see, using the wrong mortar is like putting diesel in a gasoline engine – it just won’t work! More precisely, it could do some serious damage down the line, especially if you have a historic structure or a softer type of brick.

Different mortar types have different strengths, flexibility, and compositions. Matching the mortar to the original (or a compatible one) is crucial. Using a harder mortar than the surrounding bricks can actually cause the bricks to crack over time as the mortar doesn’t give and take with the natural expansion and contraction.

Imagine this, you have an old house that was built with specific brick and mortar that has different properties, by just replacing the mortar with the new stronger one. The brick will crack faster over time.

Repointing 101: A Quick Look at the Process

• Joint Preparation: Making sure the joints are clean and free from loose debris. Think of it as prepping a canvas before you paint.
• Mortar Mixing: Mixing the mortar to the perfect consistency. It should be like creamy peanut butter – easy to spread but not too runny.
• Application: Carefully packing the mortar into the joints, making sure to fill them completely. There are special tools called hawks and trowels for this (it is not as dangerous as it sounds!).
• Tooling: Shaping the mortar to match the existing joints. This is where the artistry comes in.
• Curing: Keeping the mortar damp so it can properly harden. This takes a bit of patience.

Repointing is a skill that takes practice. If you are not confident (or if you are working on a valuable/historical structure), consider getting a professional to get the job done.

So, that’s pretty much it! Cleaning mortar off bricks isn’t rocket science, but it does take a bit of elbow grease and the right tools. Now that you know the basics, go get those bricks looking spick and span! Good luck, you got this!