Mountain Bike Brake Cable: Essential Guide

A functional mountain bike brake cable is essential for controlling a mountain bike. The cable connects the brake lever on the handlebars to the brake caliper mounted on the frame or fork. When the rider squeezes the brake lever, the inner wire within the brake cable housing transmits force. The force actuates the caliper, engaging the brake pads against the rotor or rim to slow the bike.

Alright, let’s talk about something super important that most cyclists probably don’t give a second thought to: brake cables. Yeah, those skinny little strands of metal are basically the unsung heroes of your bike’s entire braking system. Think of them as the nerves of your bike, relaying messages from your brain (through your fingers!) to your brakes.

Without these trusty cables, squeezing your brake levers would be about as effective as yelling “STOP!” at a runaway train. They’re the direct link between you wanting to slow down and your bike actually slowing down.

These humble cables are the MVP (Most Valuable Part) when it comes to translating your desire to stop into actual stopping power. They take the force from your fingers and transmit it down to the brake calipers or arms, telling them to clamp down on the rims or rotors. It’s a pretty neat system when you think about it.

So, why should you care about these seemingly insignificant wires? Well, quite simply, your safety depends on them. Understanding how they work, what they’re made of, and how to keep them in tip-top shape is crucial for a safe and enjoyable ride. A well-maintained brake cable means responsive braking, giving you the confidence to tackle any hill, navigate busy streets, and avoid those unexpected obstacles. A poorly maintained one? Let’s just say you might end up becoming intimately acquainted with the nearest bush.

So stick with us as we dive into the world of brake cables! We’ll get into the nitty-gritty of what makes them tick, how to keep them happy, and why they deserve a little more of your attention. Because let’s face it, when it comes to staying safe on two wheels, every little bit helps.

Anatomy of a Bicycle Brake Cable System: Understanding the Components

Let’s peek under the hood, shall we? Your bicycle’s braking system is a symphony of parts working in harmony, and the brake cable system is a crucial section of that orchestra. It’s more than just a wire running from your handlebars to your brakes; it’s a carefully engineered system with individual components contributing to your stopping power. Ignoring them? That’s like conducting an orchestra with a kazoo. Let’s break it down:

Inner Wire (Cable): The Messenger of Your Braking Intentions

Think of the inner wire as the direct line of communication between your brake lever and the brake calipers or arms.

• Materials Matter: You’ll typically find inner wires made from a few types of steel:
  • Steel: The classic choice. Does the job well, but can be prone to rust if not maintained.
  • Stainless Steel: The premium option. Resists corrosion like a superhero, ensuring consistent performance even in wet or salty conditions. Worth the extra cost? Many riders believe so!
  • Galvanized Steel: A middle-ground option that offers some corrosion resistance at a lower price point than stainless steel.
• Stranded vs. Solid: The construction of the inner wire is important:
  • Stranded: Most common due to its flexibility, allowing for easier routing around bends. Think of it like a rope, made of many smaller strands twisted together.
  • Solid: Less common in modern bikes due to its lack of flexibility, which can make installation and smooth operation more difficult.

Outer Housing: Guiding the Way

The outer housing acts as a protective sheath, guiding the inner wire along its path. Think of it as the postal worker that always directs and delivers your message (the inner wire) to the right place.

• Construction: The outer housing typically consists of:
  • An outer shell providing structural integrity and protection against the elements.
  • An inner liner made of a low-friction material to allow the inner wire to move smoothly.
• The Liner’s Role: The liner is crucial for reducing friction between the inner wire and the housing, ensuring smooth and responsive braking.

Compressionless Housing: The High-Performance Option

For riders who demand the ultimate in braking performance, compressionless housing is the way to go.

• Design and Advantages: Unlike standard housing, compressionless housing is designed to resist compression under load, resulting in more direct and responsive braking. This is achieved through a different internal construction.
• When to Use: Consider compressionless housing for bikes with disc brakes or for riders who prioritize maximum braking power and modulation. Standard housing is perfectly adequate for many rim brake systems and more casual riding styles. The key here is the amount of stopping power you need.

Ferrules (Cable End Caps): Protecting the Investment

These little caps, often overlooked, play a vital role in protecting the cable ends and ensuring a proper fit within the brake levers and calipers.

• Function: Ferrules prevent the cable from fraying and provide a clean, secure interface with the brake components.
• Importance of Correct Fit: Using the correct size and type of ferrule is essential for optimal braking performance and safety. A loose or damaged ferrule can compromise the entire system. The importance of ferrules is they are the safety net of your braking system!

The Art of Cable Routing: Optimizing Performance Through Proper Installation

Ever wonder why your brakes feel like you’re trying to stop a train with a rubber band? It might not be your imagination, and it’s not always about brute strength. A major culprit is often something you might overlook: cable routing. Think of your brake cables like tiny rivers carrying the message of “STOP!” from your hands to your wheels. A smooth, direct route means a clear, urgent message. A tangled, kinked path? Well, that’s like trying to send a text message through a potato – slow, garbled, and ultimately frustrating.

So, how does this “cable choreography” really affect things? It’s all about friction, my friend. Every twist, turn, and unnecessary loop creates friction, which steals away your braking power. You pull the lever with all your might, but some of that force gets lost along the way, like taxes on your paycheck. This results in reduced braking power, a longer stopping distance (not ideal when that squirrel darts out in front of you!), and a mushy, unresponsive lever feel. Nobody wants mushy brakes!

Tips for becoming a cable routing Rockstar
Let’s talk about how to achieve cable routing nirvana. It’s about creating smooth, unobstructed paths for your brake cables. Here are a few golden rules to live by:

• Keep it smooth: Avoid sharp bends and kinks. Aim for gentle curves that allow the cable to move freely.
• Less is more: The shortest distance between two points is a straight line, right? The same applies to your cables. Avoid unnecessary loops or detours.

• Use cable guides: Most bikes have built-in cable guides along the frame. Use them! They keep the cables in place and prevent them from rubbing against the frame or other components.

  Think of them as tiny traffic controllers, guiding your cables along the right path.

• Avoid obstructions: Make sure your cables aren’t rubbing against tires, frame parts, or anything else that could cause friction.
• Slack is not your friend: While you want smooth curves, you don’t want excess cable hanging around. Too much slack can lead to the cable rubbing on the frame, getting caught on things, or even kinking.
• Zip-tie with care: Zip ties are your friends, but don’t strangle your cables! Cinch them snugly, but not so tight that they compress the housing.

Spotting the cable routing sins

Now, let’s play a game of “spot the routing disaster.” Here are a few common cable routing sins to avoid:

• The dreaded “S” bend: This is where the cable makes a sharp “S” shape, often near the brake lever or caliper. This creates a lot of friction and can significantly reduce braking power.
• The “rubbing rogue”: Cables rubbing against the frame, tires, or other components. Over time, this can wear away the cable housing and even damage the frame.
• The “spaghetti monster”: An excess of loose cables creating a tangled mess. This not only looks bad but also increases the risk of kinking and rubbing.
• The “forgotten guide”: Ignoring the built-in cable guides and letting the cables flop around wherever they please.

(Photos/Diagrams): Include side-by-side photos or diagrams illustrating good vs. bad cable routing techniques. For example:

• Photo 1: A cable run with smooth, gentle curves, properly secured in cable guides.
• Photo 2: A cable run with sharp bends, rubbing against the frame, and generally looking chaotic.

The visual contrast will help readers understand the difference between optimal and suboptimal cable routing.

Tension is Key: Adjusting Your Brakes for Optimal Performance

Okay, picture this: You’re cruising down a hill, wind in your hair, feeling like a cycling superstar…and then you need to stop. Yikes! That’s where proper brake cable tension becomes your new best friend. Think of it as the Goldilocks principle of bike maintenance – not too loose, not too tight, but just right. It’s all about getting that perfect balance between responsiveness and stopping power, ensuring your brakes are ready to spring into action the instant you need them.

Without the right tension, your brakes are about as effective as trying to stop a train with a sternly worded letter. Too little tension and you’ll be squeezing those levers like you’re trying to crush grapes, with minimal stopping action. Too much, and your brakes might start rubbing against the wheel even when you aren’t braking! This leads to unnecessary wear and tear.

Step-by-Step Guide to Brake Cable Tension Adjustment: Time to Get Hands-On!

Let’s dive into the nitty-gritty of adjusting your brake cables. Don’t worry, it’s easier than parallel parking! Grab a few simple tools, and let’s get started.

1. Identify Your Adjustment Points: Most bikes have barrel adjusters located either at the brake lever or on the brake caliper itself. These are your go-to dials for fine-tuning cable tension. If you’ve got V-brakes, you might also have a tension adjustment screw on one of the brake arms. These are usually small, and can be adjusted using a hex key.

2. Loosen the Lock Ring: (If Applicable) Some barrel adjusters have a lock ring to prevent them from moving unintentionally. Loosen this ring before making any adjustments.

3. Adjust the Barrel Adjuster: This is where the magic happens!

   • To Increase Tension: Turn the barrel adjuster counter-clockwise. This effectively lengthens the cable housing, pulling the brake cable tighter.
   • To Decrease Tension: Turn the barrel adjuster clockwise. This shortens the cable housing, giving the brake cable more slack.

4. Check Your Work: After each adjustment, spin the wheel to check for brake rub. Squeeze the brake lever to see how responsive the brakes feel. You should be able to apply the brakes firmly without the lever hitting the handlebar.

5. Fine-Tune: Make small adjustments until you achieve the perfect balance. The goal is to have the brake pads engage the rim or rotor quickly and firmly, with a solid lever feel. If you’re finding your barrel adjusters aren’t enough, it might be time to loosen the cable at the brake caliper itself and make a more significant adjustment there. A picture is worth a thousand words – so if you’re unsure, there’s tons of visual aid videos to help you.

6. Tighten the Lock Ring: (If Applicable) Once you’re satisfied with the adjustment, tighten the lock ring to secure the barrel adjuster in place.

Finding That Sweet Spot: The Art of the Perfect Balance

The key to mastering brake cable tension is finding that sweet spot where your brakes are responsive, powerful, and reliable. You want the brake lever to have a comfortable amount of travel before the brakes engage, but not so much that it feels spongy or weak.

Important Consideration:

• Visual Aids are Key: A picture (or video) really is worth a thousand words when it comes to brake adjustments. Online resources and tutorials can provide invaluable guidance.
• If you’re uncomfortable making these adjustments yourself, don’t hesitate to seek professional help from a qualified bike mechanic. Brakes are critical for safety, and it’s always better to be safe than sorry.

Materials Matter: Exploring the Composition of Brake Cables

Let’s dive deep into what makes up these unsung heroes of stopping power! Think of your brake cables like the veins of your bike, carrying the lifeblood of control. But instead of blood, it’s tension! The materials used to make these cables play a HUGE role in how well they perform, how long they last, and how reliably they’ll bring you to a safe stop. Let’s get into the nitty-gritty.

Steel (Various Grades)

Ah, steel, the OG of brake cable materials! Not all steel is created equal, though. We’re talking about different grades, each with its own set of superpowers (and weaknesses).

• Tensile Strength: This is basically how much oomph the cable can handle before snapping. Higher tensile strength means a stronger, more reliable cable.

• Flexibility: Ever tried bending a really stiff piece of metal? Not fun. More flexible steel allows for smoother cable routing and a more responsive feel at the brake lever.

So, how does the steel grade affect things? A higher grade of steel translates to a more durable cable that can withstand more stress, giving you consistent performance and a longer lifespan. Think of it like this: cheap steel is like a flimsy paperclip, while high-grade steel is like a sturdy carabiner. You know which one you’d trust more!

Stainless Steel

Now we’re talking fancy! Stainless steel is the VIP of the brake cable world, known for its resistance to rust and corrosion.

• Corrosion Resistance: This is the big one! Stainless steel laughs in the face of rain, mud, and road salt. No more worrying about your cables turning into rusty, crusty messes!
• Long-Term Durability: Because it doesn’t rust, stainless steel lasts significantly longer than regular steel. It’s an investment in the long run.

But is it worth the extra cost? That’s the million-dollar question (or, you know, the ten-dollar question). If you live in a wet climate, ride frequently in all conditions, or just want the peace of mind that comes with knowing your cables are built to last, stainless steel is a no-brainer. If you’re on a super tight budget and ride mostly in dry conditions, you might be able to get away with regular steel, but be prepared to replace them more often.

Galvanized Steel

Galvanized steel is like stainless steel’s less glamorous cousin. It’s coated in zinc to protect it from corrosion, but it’s not quite as effective as stainless steel.

• Corrosion Resistance: The zinc coating does a decent job of preventing rust, but it can wear off over time, especially with friction and abrasion.
• Trade-offs: Galvanized steel is usually cheaper than stainless steel, making it a good option for budget-conscious riders who still want some level of corrosion protection. However, it’s not as durable in the long run.

The Big Showdown: Galvanized vs. Stainless

Think of it like this: galvanized steel is like a raincoat – it’ll keep you dry for a while, but eventually, the water will seep through. Stainless steel is like a waterproof diving suit – you’re good to go no matter what!

Material Impact: Performance, Durability, and Weather Resistance

So, how do these different materials affect your ride?

• Braking Performance: All three materials can provide adequate braking performance when new. However, stainless steel and high-grade steel cables tend to maintain their performance for longer, thanks to their superior strength and resistance to corrosion.
• Durability: Stainless steel wins hands down in the durability category. Galvanized steel is a decent second, while regular steel will likely need to be replaced more frequently.
• Weather Resistance: Again, stainless steel takes the crown. Rain, snow, mud – it doesn’t care! Galvanized steel offers some protection, but regular steel is vulnerable to rust and corrosion.

Choosing the right brake cable material is all about balancing your needs, your budget, and the conditions you ride in. Do your research, consider your options, and choose the cable that will keep you safe and riding smoothly for years to come!

Mechanical vs. Hydraulic: Decoding the Brake Battle!

Okay, folks, let’s dive into the age-old debate: Mechanical disc brakes versus hydraulic disc brakes. Think of it as the bicycle world’s version of Coke vs. Pepsi, except with less sugar and more stopping power (hopefully!). At their core, both aim to halt your two-wheeled steed, but they achieve this in wildly different ways. Imagine one is like pulling the strings on a puppet, while the other is like squeezing a water balloon – same result, very different feel!

Let’s start with the basics. Mechanical disc brakes are your classic cable-actuated systems. When you squeeze the lever, you’re physically pulling a cable that clamps the brake pads onto the rotor. It’s a direct, no-nonsense approach. Hydraulic disc brakes, on the other hand, use a closed system filled with hydraulic fluid. Squeezing the lever pushes this fluid, which in turn forces the brake pads against the rotor.

Mechanical Disc Brakes: The Reliable Workhorse

Advantages:

• Affordability: Mechanical disc brakes generally won’t make as big of a dent in your wallet. They are more budget-friendly than their hydraulic counterparts.
• Simplicity: Because they rely on cables, you can often make adjustments and repairs with basic tools you likely already have.
• Ease of Maintenance in a Pinch: Stranded in the middle of nowhere with a broken hydraulic line? Good luck! A broken brake cable? Much easier to MacGyver a fix.

Disadvantages:

• Performance: Compared to hydraulics, mechanical disc brakes require more lever force for the same stopping power.
• Cable Stretch: Brake cables are prone to stretching over time, requiring frequent adjustments to maintain optimal performance.
• Feel: The braking feel can be less smooth and modulated than hydraulic systems.

Hydraulic Disc Brakes: The Smooth Operator

Advantages:

• Superior Performance: Hydraulic systems provide more stopping power with less lever effort.
• Better Modulation: You get a more nuanced feel and greater control over your braking force.
• Self-Adjusting: Hydraulic systems are generally self-adjusting for pad wear, meaning less maintenance.

Disadvantages:

• Higher Cost: Hydraulic disc brakes are more expensive to purchase and often to maintain.
• Complexity: Repairs can be more complicated, often requiring specialized tools and knowledge.
• Maintenance: Bleeding the brake lines to remove air bubbles can be a messy and sometimes frustrating process.

Which Brake is Right For You?

So, when should you choose one over the other? It really comes down to your riding style, budget, and willingness to tinker.

• Mechanical Disc Brakes: Great for commuters, casual riders, and those on a budget. Also a solid choice for touring where reliability and ease of field repair are paramount.
• Hydraulic Disc Brakes: Ideal for mountain bikers, aggressive trail riders, and anyone who demands maximum braking performance and control. Also good for those who prefer less frequent maintenance.

Ultimately, the best braking system is the one that gives you the confidence to ride safely and comfortably. So, do your research, consider your needs, and don’t be afraid to ask your local bike shop for advice!

A Closer Look at Rim Brake Systems: V-Brakes and Cantilever Brakes

Alright, let’s dive into the retro side of things – rim brakes! You might see these fellas hanging out on older bikes or cyclocross rigs (yes, they still exist!). Two main characters here: V-brakes and cantilever brakes.

V-Brakes: The Direct Approach

Think of V-brakes as the straightforward, “get-the-job-done” type. They’re called V-brakes because, well, the arms form a “V” shape! A cable pulls directly on these arms, squeezing the brake pads against the rim.

• How they work: Simple. Pull the lever, cable pulls the arms, pads meet rim, bike slows (or hopefully stops!).
• Advantages: Easy to adjust, powerful, and relatively inexpensive. They offer great stopping power.
• Disadvantages: Can be mud magnets, and if not set up correctly, can feel a bit “grabby”.

Cantilever Brakes: The Balancing Act

Now, cantilever brakes are a bit more… complex. They use a straddle cable and hanger to multiply the force applied to the brake arms. It’s like a little physics experiment on your bike!

• How they work: You pull the brake lever, which pulls the main cable. This cable then pulls upwards on a straddle cable, which is connected to the two brake arms. The arms then squeeze the brake pads against the rim.
• Advantages: Good clearance for fenders and wider tires, making them popular on touring and cyclocross bikes. When properly set up, they can offer excellent modulation.
• Disadvantages: A pain to set up correctly. The angle of the straddle cable and the position of the cable hanger are critical to performance.

Cable Considerations for Rim Brakes: Hangers and More!

Here’s where the cable talk gets specific to rim brakes, especially for those quirky cantilever brakes.

• Cable Hanger Placement (Cantilever Brakes): The position of the cable hanger is absolutely key to how well cantilever brakes work. Too high, and you lose power. Too low, and you risk locking up the brakes. Experiment to find the “sweet spot,” where you’ve got good power and modulation. You want it placed at a point where it’s not too high or too low, which can affect the braking force and feel.
• Smooth Cable Routing: This is always important, but even more so with cantilever brakes. Any friction in the cable will reduce the braking power and make the lever feel mushy. Make sure the cable housing is in good condition and properly lubricated.
• Housing Length: You’ll want to ensure that the brake cable housing is the correct length. Too short and it could bind or restrict movement, too long and it could impact the responsiveness and lever feel.

And there you have it! A quick peek into the world of rim brakes. While they might not be as flashy as disc brakes, they still have a place in cycling history (and on some of our bikes!). Understanding how they work and paying attention to the cable setup will keep you rolling (and stopping) safely!

Performance Under Pressure: How Brake Cables Impact Your Ride

Okay, let’s dive into how those humble brake cables really affect your ride. We’re not just talking about stopping (though, yeah, that’s kinda important!), but the whole feel and confidence you get when you’re out there shredding… or, you know, casually cruising to the coffee shop.

Braking Power: Are You Really Stopping?

Ever squeezed your brakes and felt like you were politely suggesting the bike slow down? Yeah, that’s a bummer. Cable quality, tension, and housing all play a HUGE role here. A frayed cable or a housing that’s seen better days can suck up a ton of your braking force. Think of it like trying to punch someone with a really long, squishy pool noodle in between. You’re putting in the effort, but not getting the result. High-quality cables and properly tensioned brakes translate into real, reliable stopping power.

Stopping Distance: Every Inch Counts!

This one’s pretty straightforward. Shorter stopping distance = fewer close calls = more confidence = less “OH $#@%”. The condition and tension of your brake cables directly impact how quickly you can bring your bike to a halt. Think of it like this: would you rather have the brakes of a Formula 1 car, or a rusty shopping cart? Enough said.

Lever Feel: That “Just Right” Sensation

This is where it gets a little more subjective. Ever get on a bike and the brakes just feel right? That’s often down to the cables. They contribute to the tactile sensation and modulation of your brakes, letting you feather them for smooth speed control or grab a fistful for emergency stops. It’s all about that Goldilocks zone: not too mushy, not too grabby, just right.

Responsiveness: Nano-Seconds Matter

Imagine a cheetah chasing its prey, but there’s an input lag with every step! Cable friction and housing type directly affect brake response time. Low friction and compressionless housing will give you that instant, right-now braking feel, while a rusty, neglected cable system will leave you feeling like you’re always a step behind.

Durability: Built to Last?

Cables may seem like a small part of your bike, but they’re working hard every time you ride. Material, riding conditions, and maintenance (or lack thereof) all impact how long your cables last. Riding in muddy conditions? Expect to replace them more often. Neglecting lubrication? Kiss those cables goodbye!

Weather Resistance: Rain or Shine (or Snow!)

Finally, let’s talk about the elements. Some cables are more susceptible to rust and corrosion than others. If you ride in wet conditions, stainless steel cables are your friends. They’ll resist corrosion and keep your brakes working smoothly, even when Mother Nature throws a tantrum. A bike’s performance in different climates and the ability to handle all types of conditions makes for an excellent riding experience.

Troubleshooting and Maintenance: Keeping Your Brakes in Top Condition

Let’s face it, ignoring your brake cables is like ignoring that weird noise your car’s been making for the last six months – it’s probably going to end badly. Thankfully, keeping your brake cables in tip-top shape isn’t rocket science. Here’s the lowdown on dealing with common issues and keeping those brakes singing smoothly.

Cable Stretch: Myth or Reality?

First up, let’s talk about cable stretch. Is it real? Sort of. What you’re actually experiencing isn’t the cable magically elongating like a piece of taffy, but rather the cable settling in, the housing compressing slightly, and the various components finding their happy place. This leads to increased slack, meaning your brake lever pulls further before the brakes engage.

How to Deal With It: The good news is, it’s easily fixed! Most bikes have barrel adjusters located either on the brake levers or the brake calipers themselves. A few quick turns to increase the tension, and you’re back in business. If the barrel adjuster is maxed out, you might need to loosen the cable at the caliper end, pull the cable through a bit, and re-tighten.

Lubrication: The Key to a Happy Cable

Think of your brake cables like the Tin Man – they need lubrication to move freely! Friction is the enemy of good braking performance, so keeping those cables slick is crucial.

Best Practices: Use a lightweight lubricant specifically designed for bicycle cables. Avoid heavy greases, as they can attract dirt and gunk, making things worse in the long run. A few drops of lubricant into the cable housing at the lever end, working the lever to distribute it, can make a world of difference. Some riders swear by injecting lubricant using a cable oiler tool.

Recommended Lubricants: Popular options include dry Teflon-based lubricants or specific cable lubricants from brands like Finish Line or Pedro’s.

Signs of Wear and Tear: When to Say Goodbye

Brake cables don’t last forever. Knowing when to replace them can prevent a nasty surprise on the road.

Watch Out For:

• Fraying: This is a big one. If you see strands of the inner cable starting to unravel, it’s time for a change.
• Kinking: A kink in the cable creates a weak spot and significantly reduces braking performance.
• Corrosion: Rust can increase friction and weaken the cable. If your cables are looking rusty, swap them out.
• Sticking or Sluggishness: If your brakes feel sticky or don’t return to their original position quickly, the cables might be binding inside the housing.

Replacement Procedure: A Quick Overview

Replacing brake cables isn’t super complicated, but it does require some attention to detail.

The Gist:

1. Loosen the brake cable at the caliper.
2. Remove the old cable from the lever and housing.
3. Thread the new cable through the housing, making sure it’s routed correctly.
4. Attach the cable to the caliper and tighten it securely.
5. Adjust the brake tension using the barrel adjusters.
6. Cut off any excess cable and crimp on a new cable end.

(Note: It’s always a good idea to consult a detailed guide or video tutorial for specific instructions, especially if you’re new to bike maintenance.)

Tools Needed: Your Brake Cable Arsenal

Having the right tools makes the job much easier.

• Cable Cutters: Regular wire cutters will mangle your brake cables. Invest in a good pair of cable cutters designed specifically for the job. These provide a clean, fray-free cut.
• Crimping Tool: After cutting the cable, you’ll want to crimp on a cable end (ferrule) to prevent fraying. A crimping tool makes this quick and easy. Pliers can work in a pinch, but a dedicated tool provides a more secure crimp.
• Allen Keys/Wrenches: For loosening and tightening the cable at the brake caliper and lever.

With a little know-how and the right tools, you can keep your brake cables in excellent condition, ensuring safe and reliable braking for miles to come. Now get out there and ride!

So, next time you’re giving your trusty steed a once-over, don’t forget those brake cables. A few minutes of attention can save you from a world of trouble (and a face full of dirt) out on the trails. Happy riding!